Landlocked Baking, Chalet close by as parent company consolidates

After struggling to keep pace financially since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, Indianapolis-based Small Victories Hospitality on Sunday closed its Landlocked Baking Company in Irvington and Chalet, a coffee and wine bar in Butler-Tarkington .

The closures came as part of an effort by Small Victories to refocus efforts on Irvington ramen bar Strange Bird. In addition to the closure of the two properties, the restaurant group will transfer management of Coat Check Coffee downtown to the Athenaeum Foundation, while event organizer Tinker House will take over management of Near Northside coffee and cocktail lounge Provider.

In an Instagram post, Small Victories co-owner Neal Warner said the restaurant group has not received any financial support from the Small Business Administration’s Restaurant Revitalization Fund, which as of March 2021 paid between $1,000 and $10 million in eligible companies. Many of the approximately 60% of eligible restaurants that went without financial help have since struggled with debt.

“I woke up focused on bringing a great product and experience to a community of like-minded friends and neighbors,” Warner said in the Instagram post. “Now it feels like a victory to keep inventory stocked and everyone paid. You’ve heard it all before, but small businesses, especially in the hospitality industry, are like economic punching bags.”

Opening in 2022 at 5555 N. Illinois St., the chalet offers a cozy alpine ski lodge atmosphere with hot drinks, wine and a menu heavy on pork and strong cheese. Landlocked launched in the fall of 2020 at 120 S. Audubon Road on the same block as Strange Bird and quickly became a favorite among brunch and coffee lovers.

But since the pandemic, Warner said, running five locations at once became financially unfeasible.

Those lamenting the loss of Landlocked range from regular customers to prominent names in Indy’s dining scene. Michael Conley, executive chef of Kan-Kan Cinema and Brasserie, expressed frustration with the lack of financial support people received during the pandemic.

“It makes me a little sad because there’s no real reason why this would happen,” he said. “I would like everyone to want to take care of everyone. But sometimes that doesn’t happen and you have to close the doors if no one comes.”

Bluebeard pastry chef Youssef Boudarine called Landlocked’s situation “messed up” given the SBA’s uneven, seemingly arbitrary distribution of funds; other Indianapolis eateries, including the World of Beer chains (which closed their Indianapolis location late last year) and MCL Bakery received hundreds of thousands of dollars. Boudarine said many of the restaurants receiving aid needed it, but many deserving small businesses were left out.

“I started in a small neighborhood like Irvington and worked with the community. I was sad that (landlocked) had to close,” he said. “We need more community businesses than corporate businesses in Indiana.”

In a Facebook post, Warner said he has received several inquiries about purchasing Chalet, potentially giving the cafe and wine bar a second chance under different ownership. Bluebeard chief Alan Sternberg is optimistic that the void left by Landlocked won’t remain empty for long, though he acknowledged that with any closure comes its fair share of sadness.

“If there is enough demand for it, someone will step up and fill that space for the community,” he said. “It’s just sad to see people lose their jobs. Good people get jobs, so they’ll be fine in the end, but for now I’m sure it’s emotionally overwhelming for them.”

Contact food reporter Bradley Hohulin at [email protected]. You can follow him on Twitter/X @BradleyHohulin.

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