AI-generated models aim to add diversity to the fashion industry

The virtual twin was generated by artificial intelligence and has already appeared as a replacement for the real Alexsandrah in a photo shoot. Alexsandrah, who goes by her first name professionally, in turn receives credit and compensation when the AI ​​version of herself is used – just like a human model.

Alexsandrah says she and her alter ego mirror each other “down to the baby hairs.” And it’s yet another example of how AI is transforming the creative industries – and how people are (or aren’t) compensated.

Advocates say the increasing use of AI in fashion modeling shows diversity of all shapes and sizes, allowing consumers to make more customized purchasing decisions, which in turn reduces fashion waste from returns. And digital modeling saves companies money and creates opportunities for people who want to work with the technology.

But critics raise concerns that digital modeling could push human models — and other professionals such as makeup artists and photographers — out of their jobs. Unsuspecting consumers could also be fooled into thinking AI models are real, and companies could take credit for meeting diversity commitments without hiring real people.

“Fashion is exclusive, with limited opportunities for people of color to break in,” said Sara Ziff, a former fashion model and founder of the Model Alliance, a nonprofit organization that aims to advance the rights of workers in the fashion industry. “I think the use of AI to distort racial representation and marginalize actual models of color exposes this troubling disconnect between the industry’s stated intentions and their actual actions.”

Women of color in particular have long faced higher barriers to entry in the modeling world, and AI could wipe out some of the gains they’ve made. Data shows that women are more likely to work in occupations where the technology could be applied and are at greater risk of displacement than men.

In March 2023, iconic denim brand Levi Strauss & Co. announced that it would test AI-generated models from Amsterdam company Lalaland.ai to add a wider range of body types and underrepresented demographics to its website. But after receiving much criticism, Levi made it clear that the company is not backing down on its plans for live photo shoots, its use of live models, or its commitment to working with diverse models.

“We do not view this (AI) pilot as a means to promote diversity or as a substitute for the real action that needs to be taken to achieve our diversity, equality and inclusion goals, and it should not have been viewed as such depicted,” says Levi. said in his statement at the time.

The Associated Press contacted several other retailers to ask if they use AI modelling. Target, Kohl’s and fast-fashion giant Shein declined to comment.

Spokespeople for Nieman Marcus, H&M, Walmart and Macy’s said their respective companies do not use AI models, although Walmart clarified that “suppliers may have a different approach to the photography they provide for their products, but we do not have that information.”

Nevertheless, companies that generate AI models are finding demand for the technology, including Lalaland.ai, which was co-founded by Michael Musandu after he felt frustrated by the absence of clothing models that looked like him.

“One model does not represent everyone who actually shops and buys a product,” he said. “As a person of color, I felt this painfully myself.”

Musandu says his product is intended to complement traditional photo shoots and not replace them. Instead of seeing one model, shoppers could see nine to twelve models using different size filters, which would enrich their shopping experience and help reduce product returns and fashion waste.

London-based model Alexsandrah, who is black, says her digital counterpart has helped her stand out in the fashion industry. In fact, the real Alexsandrah has even taken the place of a black computer-generated model named Shudu, created by Cameron Wilson, a former fashion photographer turned CEO of The Digigitals, a British-based digital modeling agency.

Wilson, who is white and uses they/them pronouns, designed Shudu in 2017, described on Instagram as the “world’s first digital supermodel.” But critics at the time accused Wilson of cultural appropriation and digital blackface.

Wilson took the experience as a lesson and transformed The Digitals to ensure that Shudu – who has been booked by Louis Vuitton and BMW – didn’t take away opportunities, but instead opened up possibilities for women of color. For example, Alexsandrah has personally modeled as Shudu for Vogue Australia, and writer Ama Badu created Shudu’s backstory and portrayed her voice for interviews.

Edmond worries that modeling agencies and companies are taking advantage of models, who are generally independent contractors with few labor protections in the U.S., by using their photos to train AI systems without their consent or compensation.

But in the absence of AI regulations, it is up to companies to be transparent and ethical. Model Alliance founder Ziff likens the current lack of legal protection for fashion workers to “the Wild West.”