What does the French ‘ban’ on fast fashion really mean? | Marie Claire

Last month, the French parliament voted unanimously in favor of a bill aimed at curbing fast fashion.

The bill is the first of its kind and if approved by the Senate, France will become the first country in the world to legalize fast fashion and its devastating consequences.

As a country known for its luxury brands such as Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, the appeal of fast fashion’s low cost and mass production has serious consequences not only for the environment, but also for the economy and culture.

“This evolution of the clothing sector towards ephemeral fashion, which combines higher volumes and low prices, influences consumer purchasing behavior by creating purchasing impulses and a constant need for innovation, which is not without environmental, social and economic consequences,” the bill said.

The kill bill comes shortly after the country launched a repair program that encourages French people to repair their garments rather than throw them away.

Last year, the French government poured 154 million euros ($168 million) into the initiative, which reimburses consumers up to 25 euros ($27.20) for each item they repair.

However, the new bill is described as another “major step forward” by French Environment Minister Christophe Béchu, who turned against X after the successful vote in the lower house.

“A major step has been taken to reduce the ecological footprint of the textile sector,” Béchu added on X.

What does the bill actually entail? Can you still walk into Zara on the Champs-Élysées? Below we explain everything you need to know about France’s ‘fast fashion’ ban.

What does the ‘ban’ mean?

The bill has been described as a ‘ban’ on fast fashion, but the exact meaning of the ‘ban’ is a little more complicated.

Essentially, the bill will not stop the production and sale of fast fashion in France.

It’s more about introducing legislation that stops consumers from buying it and brands from making and selling too much of it.

This includes:

• A complete ban on advertising for fast fashion brands

• An environmental surcharge of €5 ($8.25) on every fast fashion item produced

A key part of the environmental tax includes a gradual increase in the surcharge to €10 (AU$11) by 2030.

This should make it more expensive for companies to produce and sell ‘cheap’ fast fashion items.

However, the charge may not exceed 50% of the price of the item. The surcharge will therefore also be lower for items with a lower price.

The money from the levy will then be used to support more sustainable and environmentally friendly brands in making products.

The bill also requires fast fashion brands, such as Shein and Temu, to post clearly visible messages about the environmental impact of their products on their websites and encourage their customers to recycle items. If brands don’t comply, they will have to pay up to €15,000 ($16,160).

What defines ‘fast fashion’?

Fast fashion is generally seen as clothing that is produced quickly, massively and responds to the latest fashion trends.

Items are usually cheap to produce, cheap to purchase and of low quality. The model provides consumers with a constantly changing wardrobe of new, inexpensive items, reinforcing the high-consumption mentality with low-wage garment workers and the environment bearing the consequences.

France’s new bill mainly targets ultra-fast fashion brands such as Shein and Temu, but will impact any fashion brand guilty of the above.

This is expected to include popular brands such as H&M, Zara and Mango.

To decide, the country will use a new ecopoint system to rate fashion companies.

What do fast fashion brands think?

It’s safe to say that fast fashion brands aren’t exactly happy with the new bill.

Shein, an ultra-fast fashion company from China, has argued that the bill “will worsen the purchasing power of French consumers, at a time when they are already feeling the impact of the cost of living” in a statement to the BBC.

A spokesperson for the Chinese colossus Temu also said this BBC that their brand “recognizes the important environmental issues addressed by the proposed French legislation”, and has argued that they do not operate as a fast fashion company because they are a marketplace and do not make their own products.

What needs to happen before it becomes law?

Before the bill becomes law, it must go to the Senate for a final vote.